In 9 beds around Japan – Part 1

My “In 8 beds around Vietnam” post was such a success, that i decided to do the same thing for Japan. Also because it’s best to split my tips up into two parts and areas I’ve visited, cause there are just too many.

So let’s start with the first part.


#1 Tokyo – Book and Bed (3 nights)

I HAD to stay here during my visit to Tokyo, simply because I’ve seen so many videos about it and I am madly in love with books. So it was a given.
The place itself was great (I stayed in the one in Ikebukuro), but it’s definitely not a social hostel. (Then again, not many hostels in Japan are..) It’s still very clean and the staff is super friendly!

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Tokyo definitely didn’t disappoint me as my introduction into Japan. It might not be at all like the rest of Japan but it is one of the most vibrant, colorful, crazy cities I’ve ever been to. It’s true, it’s overcrowded sometimes but I gotta say that I haven’t had a day where I got home, wrecked from all the people and the hustle and bustle of the city. It still had areas where I could just breathe for a bit. I definitely fell in love with Tokyo and would go back in a heartbeat!
Here are a few suggestions on what to do there (but only Part 1, find the second part below):

  • Meijishrine. It’s located right behind the Harajuku station and is a shrine surrounded by a huge park. It’s nice to walk around a bit before or after walking into the madness which is Harajuku. The main park there has an entrance fee but there’s so much more park area around it, so you can easily save yourself that money.
  • Asakusa. Even though it’s a pretty touristy area , I loved it around there. One of the main reasons for that is definitely Sensoji, one of the most beautiful shrines in Tokyo! There are plenty of little shops around, mainly with souvenirs and local foods to try, but the atmosphere feels like a small town. In a way. So I’d definitely recommend it!
  • Jimbocho. I walked around Jimbocho for quite a while, strolling around all the book stores and the book market, that happened to be on the weekend I was visiting. It’s really cool and interesting, especially when you are into books, mangas or old movieposters and magazines. Most of the books are Japanese, which makes it hard to really shop there but it was pretty cool to see. And it shows once again how Tokyo is structured: Every district has its purpose.
  • Roppongi. The nightlife district of Tokyo I guess. Even though Shibuya has loads of bars, especially the Golden Gai area (even though I found it a little bit dogdy around there), Roppongi is the place where all the (international) locals go to, if they are looking for a night out. There’s not much going on during the week, but it’s packed on the weekends. We went to three different bars (shame on me, I don’t remember any of them) which they all played similar mainstream music, a little mixture of everything. So if you want to party in Tokyo, definitely head there!

tbc below.


#2 Kusatsu – Kiyoshigekan (1 night)

Kusatsu was one of the place, where I was most lonely. The reason was, that I decided to stay at an actual hotel, since the only hostel in that area that still had rooms available had really bad recommendations on Hostelworld, so I decided to treat myself and stay in a hotel for a night. The place itself wasn’t too bad and it also included breakfast, which I really enjoyed – especially since I haven’t had a typical Japanese breakfast at that point. It had a typical Japanese room and a private Onsen as well.


The area around Kusatsu is beautiful and exploring it by foot is the best way to do it! It’s actually well-known for its Onsen (=naturally hot pools of water, basically like a hot tub), but with my tattoos I wasn’t allowed in them. (Tipp: Research Onsen that allow tattoos, I found out that there actually are some. Just too late.) I also wasn’t very keen on visiting one either though, because even though I love tubs, I get bored in them after maximum 10 minutes so I guess it wouldn’t have been worth the entrance fee. If I ever go back with someone, I’ll make sure to visit a (tattoo-friendly) Onsen for sure though!

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#3 Tokyo – Citan Hostel (1 night)

Back to Tokyo. Because Tokyo has so much to offer and I had enough time to stretch out my trip a little, I decided to head back to Tokyo for one more night.
Citan Hostel was one of the coolest hostels I stayed in in Japan – it had a coffee shop downstairs, which was also accessible for not-Hostel-guests and a restaurant/bar in the basement. The prices for both might have been a bit high compared to other places around Japan, but it was a good place to meet fellow travelers.

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I already started with a few things to do in Tokyo above, so here we go with the second part.

  • Tsukij-Fishmarket. A while ago the fish market was separated into the outdoor fish market, which is Tsukij, and the indoor area Toyosu. As a tourist, I guess Tsukij is enough, since you can try loads of different fish dishes and specialities. If you are looking for a great sit down meal (especially Sushi), you should head to Toyosu. And even though it might sound weird to any western person: Be there VERY early. So 9 is ideal so you definitely get a seat at one of the better restaurants. My friend, who lived in Tokyo for a while, recommended Sushi-Dai to me (寿司大) but unfortunately I tried to go there twice and I was too late both times. So, be prepared to be there in time and to wait for at least 30 minutes – the place is tiny!
  • Akihabara. I didn’t stay here for long because it’s not really something I’m deeply interested in, but this is THE area for everything electronic and anime – and it’s definitely worth looking around. Also because it’s another example of the diversity of Tokyo. This is also the best place to go to, if you are looking for a maid café.
  • Go shopping (and exploring) in Harajuku. It definitely has a lot of typical “Harajuku-Girl” clothes, but you can also find great vintage stuff around there. Just stroll off Takeshita Dori and Omotesando (the two main streets) and you’ll run into plenty of them.

#4 Hakone – K’s House Hakone (2 nights)

First of all about the hostel itself. K’s Hostel is located a bus ride (or a walk up a steep hill) away from the main train station. It was super easy to find everything (this includes the train from Tokyo to Hakone itself) and everything went smooth at arrival. The rooms are once again very typical Japanese guestrooms with Futons that you can fold out when you’re sleeping, all laid out next to each other.
The hostel itself was super clean, offered an Onsen and had a kitchen, which I didn’t see in many hostels around Japan. Even though it had a (very cozy) common room, it still wasn’t very social unfortunately. I really haven’t figured out what it is about Japan, but it doesn’t seem to be the place to chat away in common areas of hostels. Maybe it is the fact, that Japanese (or many other Asians) are pretty reserved themselves and travelers don’t want to step on anyone’s toes. Whatever it is, it led to me exploring Hakone by myself.

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How to explore Hakone though?
Depending on how long you plan on staying there’s either a Two-Day-Pass or a Three-Day-Pass (around 45€/50€), which you can both buy in Tokyo or at the trainstation in Hakone. They include all the different means of transportation around Hakone, such as the Gondola or the train.
My day started in Hakone with a train- and gondola-ride up to Owakudani, which is an active volcanic zone. It’s pretty interesting to see but to smell surely makes you not want to stay for too long. I then took the gondola back down to Lake Ashinoko and boarded the “Hakone Sightseeing Cruise” across the lake to Hakone-Machi. It’s not a very buzzing place, but it offers a beautiful walk along the lake with a beautiful view of Mount Fuji – definitely worth it!
Somewhere along that trip I lost my 2-Day-Pass (yay me!), so I decided to instead of taking the cruise I’d just walk to Moto-Hakone. One of the most famous Insta-worthy places around Moto-Hakone is the torii of the Hakone-Jinja Shrine that’s built into the lake. It’s just a short walk from where the cruise stops. Bring some time if you really want a photo in front of it, because the queue for it is crazy! (I didn’t do it, in case you were wondering.)
Since I was really bumped about losing my ticket I just headed home afterwards. There were a few more things I would have liked to do and see, such as a little hike around Owakudani or stroll around another cute town, but I guess I gotta do that the next time.
With your purchase of your ticket(s) you will get a little leaflet that gives you ideas of what else you could do and see, which was super helpful!

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Things to know before visiting Japan as a solo traveling girl

Japan – It’s been on my list for quite a while and this October/November, I finally made it there. During the weeks leading up to the trip, I had so many people coming up to me telling me how difficult it is to travel Japan because of language barriers and how much of a challenge it will be. I got so anxious about it that I couldn’t even get excited anymore.
My main four questions were:

#1 How will I get around?
#2 Will I really spend a fortune over there?
#3 Will anyone even understand what I’m saying?
#4 Will I meet people along the way?

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I definitely have some answers to those questions now. Not all positive, but the trip was definitely one of the coolest things I’ve done and I’m proud of myself for doing it.

But first, let’s start with the normal preparations I took beforehand.

First of all, I planned my trip in advance. I normally try not to do that, but because of my anxiety beforehand, I really wanted to have my whole itinerary laid out already. So I booked my hostels, I checked the distances and I wrote down things I definitely wanted to do and see. I also ordered my Japan Railway Pass and my Pocket WiFi in advance, which made my trip so much easier.
Good to know about the Japan Railway Pass: Once you order it, you get a letter and a form by mail. With that, you need to go to a JR station and exchange it into the actual pass. You can either do it right at the airport or just go to one of the big stations (Ikebukuro, Shibuya or Akihabara for example) and do it there. Don’t forget your passport though! You can choose the starting date of your pass as well.
[There’ll be a separat blogpost about my itinerary and my travels within Japan.]

#1 Transportation

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Trains around Japan

By accident I stumbled upon this app called “Japan Official Travel App” and it kind of saved my life. It has a section “Routes” where you can find the easiest routes for you to take in order to get to your next destination. Google Maps is also a huge help when it comes to that, but the app even tells you how much the ticket is and which platform the train leaves from.
In Japan, subways are all private, which means there are different providers. Therefore, you can’t just go to any machine and buy a ticket, you have to make sure it’s the right machine for the train you have to take. (That’s where the app comes in handy.) If you want to avoid that struggle, you can also get an IC card, which covers all subways around Japan and works like an Oyster card in London – you charge it with a certain amount of money and just tap it at the subway entrance.
The subway system in Japan’s big cities isn’t that hard to handle, once you figured it out. The stations have numbers, so if you are worried you might mix up the station names (sometimes they sound similar), you can just remember the number. Once again, the app helps you with that. That system also helps, when you are not sure if you are going into the right direction – if you are traveling from station number 18 to 24 for example and the next station is 17, you are clearly on the wrong train. On top of that, it really helps that the trains are ALWAYS on time. If you ever sit on a train that leaves a few minutes before or after your schedule told you, you might be on the wrong one.

So in conclusion: Get an app, that helps you with routes, remember your station number, get an IC card – and you’ll be good to go!

#2 Costs

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If you want to save money, definitely don’t go shopping in Harajuku!

As you might have guessed, Japan is pretty expensive. But I think that the main costs are the ones for transportation – both within the cities but also across the country. When it comes to living costs, you can definitely find some ways to safe money.

  • Stay in Hostels. That might be a given, but it really is a way of saving money. Hostels are around 15-20€ a night, which is totally fine, considering they are the cleanest I’ve ever seen and most of them even have hair dryers and bodywash+shampoos in every shower.
  • Walk more. I’ve walked around 200km throughout my two weeks there. My legs hurt like crazy, but I definitely saved some money on trains. And I got to discover areas, I might have not seen otherwise.
  • 7Eleven is your friend. There are not a lot of places around the world, where I would easily eat anything at 7Eleven but in Asia, it seems to be very common. And in Japan, 7Eleven definitely offers enough choices for you not to get sick of it. You can for example get Onigiri (rice wrapped in seaweed and filled with different things, such as tuna mayonnaise, beef & egg or salmon) for around 130Yen a piece (=1€) and two of them are enough to fill you up for a meal. They also have pre-made Japanese dishes with rice and meat or fish – if you are looking for a bit more and have access to a microwave. Those dishes are around 300-400Yen (so up to 3,50€). So if you choose 7Eleven for one meal a day, you can save up some money for sure!

#3 Communication

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I guess that was one of the first things people who’ve been to Japan (or know people who have) warned me about: No one in Japan speaks English.
I don’t necessarily think that’s true. And if it is, it’s not as much of a burden as you might think. I’ve never been in a situation, where I was became desperate because no one could help me. The “experts” (hostel employees, subway employees, etc.) can always answer the basic questions. If it comes to more complex things, you might have troubles, but since I had my Pocket WiFi, I just googled things, if people couldn’t answer.
We once had a situation at a Izakaya (a restaurant) in Osaka, where literally NO ONE spoke any English and they didn’t even offer an English menu – but we managed. We just showed photos of food we wanted or used Google Translate to get us where we wanted.
So it’s definitely doable and since Japanese people are super helpful, they try their bests to help you out with any enquiry. 

#4 Meeting people

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Yes, that was an issue, I’m not gonna lie – it was the “loneliest” solo travel I’ve done so far. Which isn’t as dramatic as it sounds – I enjoyed having the opportunity to do everything I wanted to whenever I wanted to do it. In a country like Japan, that has so much to offer, that’s definitely worth something! But still, it got lonely sometimes. I mainly stayed in Hostels, but the atmosphere in them is so much different than what I’m used to from South East Asia for example. Even if the hostels had their own bar or common area, you rarely find people chatting up there. 80% or more of the hostels visitors are Asian (Japanese, Korean, Chinese) and they are a very quiet group of people. Maybe it’s their lack of knowledge of the English language, maybe it’s them being shy, I don’t really know, but there was no way of ever talking to any of them.
So I had to get out of my comfort zone a few times to just talk to people in very quiet surroundings, without having spoken to anyone for a whole day.
But don’t get me wrong: I did meet some great people that I loved spending time with, just not as many as I am used to. But you always learn and grow from experience, so I’m happy it happened that way! 

And now some more random facts about Japan:

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  • There are toilets EVERYWHERE. Every train station has them, most sights have them and sometimes just random street corners as well. And they are mainly clean and free – every travelers dream!
  • Japan is generally a very clean country – even though there are almost no trash cans anywhere. So either bring all your garbage back to your hostel or just carry it around with you, until you found one. Convenience stores usually have one.
  • People don’t eat on the streets. It’s just not common. There are barely any street vendors around and if there are, there’s a crowd of people in front of it, eating what they just got. So if you get anything at a convenience store or a café to go, make sure to sit down on some park bench or anywhere else to eat it. It’s not forbidden but you’ll definitely get some weird looks when eating on the street.
  • There might be no trash on the streets, but Japan is definitely one of those countries that produces a shitload of it. Every little thing is wrapped. Ever apple is wrapped. There are croissants, breadrolls and other baked goods wrapped in plastic. Onigiri are wrapped in plastic. It’s insane. They do recycle though, which makes it a little less bad, but it still made me furious at times.
  • There are vending machines with drinks on every corner. Fancy a coke in the middle of nowhere? There’s definitely a vending machine just around the corner.
  • And the most important thing for me: MATCHA EVERYWHERE.