Surfing – somehow the idea of “being a surfer” is magical. Surfers are cool, relaxed, always happy and especially always at the most beautiful places of the world – without being lazy over there.
But I always thought I’d suck at it. And I always had this weird thing that I’d rather not make a fool of myself in front of people. It’s better now but when I first went to Australia in 2010, I traveled around with 3 people that really wanted to surf and I just felt like I would just look ridiculous if I even tried. Obviously, they still managed to convince me to do a class with them in Agnes Water. I wasn’t even that bad.
So when I did my Around the World trip in 2013/14, I went to Bali and because Bali seems to be THE surfer destination I knew I had to do a surf camp over there. So I booked into the Kima Surfcamp in Seminyak for a week and was convinced I’d be a pro afterwards. Well… No.
I guess everything that could have gone wrong, did go wrong in the end.
Everyone has heard of the Bali belly probably. Bali (and most third world countries) is notorious because its water and food makes people’s bellies go crazy. I only got sick once but I felt awful all night. So, obviously, when we were supposed to go on our first surflesson of the day at 7am I didn’t join. Even later on I felt very weak because I barely ate all day, so I also skipped the second session of the day. So one full day at the surfcamp without surfing.
Then, on another day, I somehow jumped off my board at the end of a wave and twisted my ankle. I don’t know how I did it but I know that I am hugely clumsy so that’s probably explanation enough. Well, needless to say, that twisted ankle cost me three more surf sessions. The last time I decided to give it another try, I remember going out of the water at one point because I was exhausted and seeing my surfguide staring at my shin asking what the hell I did there. I looked down on my leg and it was full of blood and I had a little “notch” in it. Well, apparently the fin decided to hit my leg and since I was in salt water, I didn’t really feel it. Another surf session bit the dust.
Even though I thought about trying it countless times afterwards I just couldn’t get myself to do it anymore. I still love the lifestyle and I really admire all the people who love to do it and who plan their trips to follow the best waves but my clumsiness just decided for me that surfing isn’t the right sport. Thanks for that.